Meghalaya — Shillong, Cherrapunji, Dawki & Jowai
🇮🇳 India

Meghalaya — Shillong, Cherrapunji, Dawki & Jowai

Guwahati, Shillong, Cherrapunji, Mawlynnong, Dawki, Shnongpdeng, Jowai, Meghalaya | April 25, 2026

Duration

9 days

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16 min read

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A 9-day road trip through Meghalaya with 3 college friends — living root bridges, Asia’s cleanest village, India’s tallest waterfall, riverside camping, and more waterfalls than you can count. Meghalaya earned its name “the land of clouds” and we saw exactly why.


Day 1 — Delhi to Guwahati

April 25, 2026

Took an IndiGo flight from Delhi at 8:35 AM. Reached Guwahati around 11:00 AM — the weather was pleasant. The round-trip flight cost us ₹16,840 per person.

Two of us were flying from Delhi, the other two were coming from Hyderabad later in the day. So we checked into our Airbnb near city center₹2,700 for 4 people for one night. Decent enough for a transit stay.

Welcome to North East gate at Guwahati airport
Welcome to North East — the gate at Guwahati airport sets the mood right

Freshened up, took a quick nap, and headed out around 3:00 PM.

Kamakhya Devi Temple

Took Uber to the temple. Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit inside — the queue was massive. People start lining up at 3:00 AM. If you really want the darshan, reach as early as possible. The temple itself is located on a hilltop and the surroundings are beautifully maintained. Even from outside, you can feel the spiritual energy of the place.

Kamakhya Devi Temple
Kamakhya Devi Temple — one of the most revered Shakti Peethas in India

Umananda Island (Peacock Island)

Headed to the ferry point for Umananda Island. Missed the last ferry by 10 minutes — it leaves at 16:30 and we reached at 16:40. Lesson learned.

Brahmaputra Cruise

We had pre-booked a cruise ride on the Brahmaputra for 19:00₹700 per person. Had some time to kill, so we visited Fancy Bazaar nearby.

Watched the sunset, boarded the cruise. It’s a 1-hour ride with a cool breeze on the Brahmaputra. The river is massive — you really get a sense of its scale once you’re on the water. Wouldn’t say it’s completely worth the money, but if you have time and want a relaxed evening experience, why not. The sunset views from the middle of the river are quite something.

Inside the Brahmaputra cruise
Evening cruise on the Brahmaputra — cool breeze and city lights

Back at Airbnb by 21:00. Other two friends arrived by 22:00. Had dinner together and booked 4 seats on a traveller from RedBus to Shillong — ₹200 per person, departure at 7:00 AM next morning.


Day 2 — Guwahati to Shillong & Sightseeing

April 26, 2026

Woke up early, took an Uber to the traveller pickup point (~2.5 km from Airbnb). The driver asked for extra money — so heads up, negotiate or clarify fare beforehand. Simply don’t pay extra.

Reached Shillong around 11:00 AM. Took a local taxi to our Airbnb in lower Police Bazaar₹4,200 for 4 people for one night, taxi was ₹300.

It wasn’t really an Airbnb — more of a hotel that listed on the platform. Two rooms, clean and comfortable but no kitchen.

Afternoon — Shillong Sightseeing

Hired a taxi for 5 hours — ₹2,000 total. Covered three spots:

Elephant Caves — ₹50 entry. Underwhelming honestly. Small caves, nothing spectacular. Skip if short on time.

Shillong Peak — Located inside the defence campus. ₹50 entry + taxi from the gate to the peak. You can see the whole of Shillong from here — the city sprawling across the hills, surrounded by pine trees and mist. Worth the visit.

View from Shillong Peak
Panoramic view of Shillong from Shillong Peak

Laitlum Canyons — ₹50 entry. The view is mesmerizing. Deep gorges plunge down into valleys with tiny villages visible far below. It was drizzling and the wind was brutal, which somehow made it even more dramatic. The name “Laitlum” means “end of hills” in Khasi, and standing there, you understand why. Ate some snacks there and soaked it in.

Laitlum Canyons
Laitlum Canyons — where the hills end and the views begin

Taxi dropped us back at Police Bazaar. Explored the market and enquired about hiring a car for the rest of the trip.

Hiring a Car

Booked a Vitara Brezza from Taxi For Shillong₹3,700 per day for 6 days. Driver came at 9:00 AM next morning.


Day 3 — Shillong to Cherrapunji

April 27, 2026

Driver picked us up at 9:00 AM and we headed towards Cherrapunji. This is where Meghalaya starts to reveal itself.

Mawkodok View Point

First stop. This is where we started to understand why Meghalaya is called the land of clouds. The view was spectacular — green valleys disappearing into mist, clouds rolling in from below, and an almost unreal sense of depth. It felt like standing on the edge of the world.

Mawkodok View Point
Mawkodok View Point — the land of clouds starts to reveal itself

Garden of Caves

₹50 entry + ₹100 extra for GoPro. Very nicely maintained — around 15 points to explore with small and large waterfalls along a trail. Definitely worth the time and money.

Tip: Carry an umbrella and poncho. Meghalaya weather is wildly unpredictable.

Nohkalikai Falls

₹50 entry. India’s tallest plunge waterfall — dropping 340 meters into a dramatic green pool. Located about 7.5 km from Sohra (Cherrapunji).

The name translates to “Jump of Ka Likai” — legend says a woman named Likai jumped off the cliff after a tragic family event.

The falls are often covered by clouds and you might have to wait for a clear view. We got lucky — it was perfectly clear when we reached. The sheer drop and the emerald pool at the bottom make it one of those sights that no photo can fully capture. Absolutely stunning.

Nohkalikai Falls
Nohkalikai Falls — India’s tallest plunge waterfall, 340 meters into a green pool

Lunch Break

Stopped for late lunch around 15:00.

Wei Saw Dong Falls

₹50 entry. You have to climb down around 250 stairs to reach the bottom. The name means “square-shaped pool” in Khasi. Normally the water is crystal-clear bluish-green, but due to heavy rain, it was muddy when we visited. Still a beautiful spot.

Note: Closes at 17:00 — plan accordingly.

Evening

Headed to our Airbnb in Cherrapunji₹8,300 for 4 people for 2 nights. Large room with 2 double beds, access to living room and kitchen. Peaceful and clean. Called it a day early since we had the root bridge trek next morning.


Day 4 — Double Decker Living Root Bridge & Rainbow Falls

April 28, 2026

Left the Airbnb at 7:30 AM. About a 45-minute drive to the starting point at Tyrna village.

The Trek

You must take a guide — ₹800 till the Double Decker Root Bridge, or ₹1,500 if you want to continue to Rainbow Falls. Entry fee is ₹50 per person + ₹50 for the bridge itself + ₹100 extra for GoPro.

The trek down is approximately 3,500 steps. We started at 8:45 AM and reached the bridge by 10:15 AM.

Double Decker Living Root Bridge

We were early enough that no one else was there. Clicked some great photos without crowds. The bridge is made entirely from the aerial roots of rubber fig trees — trained over centuries by the Khasi people to form a natural crossing. It takes about 15–20 years for these roots to become strong enough to walk on. The double-decker structure is unique in the world — two bridges stacked on top of each other, both entirely alive and growing.

Double Decker Living Root Bridge
The Double Decker Living Root Bridge — centuries of nature and human ingenuity

Rainbow Falls

Another 1.5 hours from the bridge. The Blue Lagoon is on the way — water is supposed to be blue but was muddy due to rain. The rainbow falls themselves are tucked inside the jungle and the spray creates actual rainbows when the sun hits right.

Rainbow Falls
Rainbow Falls — hidden deep in the jungle beyond the root bridge

Came back to the Double Decker Bridge around 13:30 — by then it was packed with people. Ate lunch at a nearby cafe.

The Ascend

Started climbing back up. The 3,500 steps upward are no joke, especially after a full morning of trekking. Done by 16:00.

Tip: Start as early as possible — you’ll get an empty bridge for photos and beat the heat for the climb back up.

Optional: There’s a Single Decker Root Bridge that’s much easier if you’re short on time or energy.

Back to the Airbnb and crashed.


Day 5 — Cherrapunji to Mawlynnong (Asia’s Cleanest Village)

April 29, 2026

Started at 9:00 AM. Had to cover multiple spots on the way to Mawlynnong.

Mawsmai Cave

₹20 entry. A quick stop — a naturally formed limestone cave about 150 meters long that you can walk through. The cave is narrow in places and you might have to duck, but it’s an interesting experience. The rock formations inside are shaped by millions of years of water flow.

Mawsmai Cave
Inside Mawsmai Cave — naturally carved limestone tunnels

En Route

Saw the Bangladesh border from a viewpoint and visited Kynrem Falls on the way.

Mawlynnong — Asia’s Cleanest Village

Reached around 16:00. Mawlynnong earned the title of “Asia’s Cleanest Village” from Discover India in 2003. Every resident takes pride in maintaining the village — you won’t find a single piece of litter anywhere. It’s a community-led model of eco-tourism.

Had lunch there. The food is simple but good — local Khasi cuisine with rice, dal, and meat options. Inquired about staying the night and found a homestay near the center₹2,000 for 4 people, one room with 2 double beds. Basic but you can’t complain at that price, especially being right in the village.

Mawlynnong village
Mawlynnong — Asia’s Cleanest Village, and it truly lives up to the title

Day 6 — Dawki, Umngot River & Shnongpdeng Camping

April 30, 2026

Started at 8:00 AM from Mawlynnong.

Another Living Root Bridge

Visited another living root bridge near Mawlynnong before heading out. This one is a single-decker — smaller and less dramatic than the double-decker, but still beautiful in its own way. Fewer tourists here too.

Living root bridge near Mawlynnong
Another living root bridge near Mawlynnong — quieter and equally beautiful

Umngot River, Dawki

The Umngot River is widely considered the cleanest river in India — the water is so transparent that boats appear to float in mid-air. But we were unlucky — some construction was underway and the water was completely muddy.

Boating costs ₹800 per boat. We skipped it since we had boating planned at camp.

India-Bangladesh Friendly Border

Quick stop at the border point — you can literally see Bangladesh across the fence. It’s a “friendly border” so the atmosphere is relaxed. There’s a small market on the Indian side where you can buy some local items.

India-Bangladesh border
India-Bangladesh friendly border — two countries separated by a fence

Shnongpdeng — Riverside Camping

₹50 entry fee. We had booked camp on the far side of the river. Parked the car at the entrance, crossed via the Suspension Bridge, and reached camp around 15:00.

Rested a bit and then went boating on the river. Water wasn’t crystal clear due to rain but the experience was still fun. You can also do kayaking, cliff jumping, and other adventure activities.

Spent the night camping beside the river — peaceful, quiet, with the sound of water flowing. ₹1,600 per person including dinner and breakfast. Absolutely worth it.


Day 7 — Shnongpdeng to Jowai via Krang Suri Falls

May 1, 2026

Packed up camp and headed towards Jowai. Jowai is the scenic headquarters of West Jaintia Hills — famous for turquoise waterfalls, ancient monoliths, and the culture of the Pnar tribe. Less commercialized than Cherrapunji, more peaceful.

Krang Suri Waterfall

₹50 entry + ₹100 for life jacket. The water was finally clear — so we went swimming! Spent a solid hour in the water. The pool at the base is deep enough for jumping in but calm enough to feel safe. A stone path lets you walk behind the waterfall for a unique perspective — standing behind a curtain of water looking out is surreal.

About 15–20 minutes walking from the parking (includes steps). The descent is worth it.

Krang Suri Waterfall
Krang Suri Waterfall — the one waterfall where the water was finally crystal clear

Phe Phe Falls

We didn’t go all the way to this one — we’d had enough waterfalls by this point. But worth visiting if you have the energy. You might need a guide (~₹400).

Jowai

Reached our Airbnb in Jowai around 14:00₹4,600 for 4 people for a night. Rested, explored the nearby area on foot. A relaxing day after days of constant movement.


Day 8 — Jowai to Shillong

May 2, 2026

Started at 9:00 AM heading back to Shillong with a few stops.

Tyrshi Falls

₹30 entry. About 200 steps down. Often called the “Miniature Elephant Falls of Jowai” for its multi-tiered cascading structure. The water fans out over several rocky levels creating a beautiful layered effect.

Tyrshi Falls
Tyrshi Falls — multi-tiered cascades tucked away near Jowai

Nartiang Durga Temple

Over 500 years old, originally built during the reign of the Jaintia Kings.

Nartiang Monoliths

The largest collection of megalithic stones in the world. These ancient clusters were erected between 1500 and 1835 AD to commemorate the Jaintia Kings and their victories. Some of the monoliths are over 5 meters tall. Walking through the garden feels like stepping back in time — each stone has a story of a king or a battle. Impressive scale and historical significance.

Nartiang Monoliths
Nartiang Monoliths — the largest collection of megalithic stones in the world

Back to Shillong

Reached our Airbnb (same one as Day 2) around 17:00. Rested, then went for souvenir shopping in Police Bazaar.


Day 9 — Shillong to Guwahati & Flight Home

May 3, 2026

Our driver dropped us to Guwahati Airport₹3,000 for the ride (for 4). Left at 11:00 AM, reached airport around 14:00.

Flight was at 20:45 — we waited at the airport.


What It Cost (Per Person)

ItemCost
Flight (Delhi ↔ Guwahati, round trip)₹16,840
Airbnb Guwahati (1 night)₹675
Brahmaputra Cruise₹700
Traveller: Guwahati → Shillong₹200
Airbnb Shillong (2 nights total)₹2,100
Shillong sightseeing taxi₹500
Hired car (6 days, ₹3,700/day ÷ 4)₹5,550
Airbnb Cherrapunji (2 nights)₹2,075
Root Bridge guide (Rainbow Falls)₹375
Homestay Mawlynnong (1 night)₹500
Shnongpdeng camp (dinner + breakfast)₹1,600
Airbnb Jowai (1 night)₹1,150
Guwahati airport drop₹750
Entry fees (all combined)~₹500
Total (excl. food & misc)~₹33,000

Things to Know

  • Carry umbrella and poncho — Meghalaya weather is wildly unpredictable. It can go from sunny to pouring in minutes.
  • Start the root bridge trek early — You’ll get empty photos and avoid the brutal heat during the climb back.
  • Kamakhya Temple needs 3 AM arrival — If you actually want to get inside, go very early.
  • Hire a car for 5–6 days — Way more convenient than daily taxis. ₹3,700/day for a Brezza is a good deal with 4 people splitting.
  • Shnongpdeng camping is a must — One of the highlights of the trip. Book the riverside camps.
  • Krang Suri > other waterfalls for swimming — If you want to swim at one waterfall, make it this one.
  • Mawlynnong is worth a night stay — The village is best experienced in the quiet of early morning.
  • Jowai is underrated — Less touristy, more authentic. The monoliths are genuinely impressive.
  • Rain ruins water clarity — Dawki’s Umngot River, Blue Lagoon, and Wei Saw Dong all need dry weather to show their famous crystal-clear water.

Final Thoughts

Meghalaya lived up to the “land of clouds” name. Every turn had a new viewpoint, every valley had another waterfall, and the living root bridges are unlike anything else on the planet. The northeast doesn’t get the tourist attention it deserves — which is both its charm and its advantage.

The trip had its unlucky moments — muddy water at Dawki, rain at the Blue Lagoon, missed ferry at Umananda — but also had perfect timing at Nohkalikai Falls and an incredible swimming session at Krang Suri. That’s Meghalaya — you take what the clouds give you.

If you have 7–9 days and want something that feels genuinely different from the usual Himachal/Uttarakhand circuit, Meghalaya is it. Go before the roads get better and everyone else shows up.

🏨 Where I Stayed

Airbnb in Guwahati

₹675/night

✅ Pros
  • + Good for a night stay
  • + Close to city center
  • + Clean and comfortable

Airbnb in Shillong (Police Bazaar)

₹1,050/night

✅ Pros
  • + Clean and comfortable
  • + Two rooms for 4 people
  • + Close to Police Bazaar
❌ Cons
  • Not a real Airbnb — more like a hotel
  • No kitchen access

Airbnb in Cherrapunji

₹1,038/night

✅ Pros
  • + Large room with 2 double beds
  • + Access to living room and kitchen
  • + Very peaceful and clean

Homestay in Mawlynnong

₹500/night

✅ Pros
  • + Right in the center of Asia's cleanest village
  • + Can't complain at ₹2,000 for 4 people
❌ Cons
  • Basic accommodation

Riverside Camp at Shnongpdeng

₹1,600/night

✅ Pros
  • + Right beside the river
  • + Dinner and breakfast included
  • + Peaceful and beautiful setting
  • + Worth the money

Airbnb in Jowai

₹1,150/night

✅ Pros
  • + Comfortable for a night
  • + Good location
#meghalaya #shillong #cherrapunji #dawki #living root bridge #waterfalls #northeast #friends #camping #nature